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BlahCade 93: Circuits and Gaps
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<blockquote data-quote="dtown8532" data-source="post: 258083" data-attributes="member: 320"><p>I'm sure Chris has received some answers by now. But, they're very few parts on the power module board. Replacing them all would not be considered a shot gun type method because this board takes a lot of abuse. He really should get (or borrow) a soldering station to manage the temperature. Very important in board work to not go too hot. Also, Hakko makes a gold Brillo pad like sponge that's great for keeping the soldering tip clean. </p><p></p><p>Pinballninja.com is a fantastic video site maintained by Clay Harrell with hundreds of repair videos. A small, one time, donation gets you a password forever. He should look at every relevant Bally repair video even if it's not for EBD. </p><p></p><p>Regarding the board itself, the four large diodes are for maintaining the 5v for CPU operation. They're stressed all the time. That's why the board is black underneath. The two square components under the board are bridge rectifiers. These are basically four diodes wrapped together in a little box to covert AC voltage to D.C. voltage. One is for the coils and the other is for the CPU controlled lights. They may have a heat sink paste on them and are pressed against a large metal plate that the board is attached to. This acts as a heat sink. The red lollipop looking thing is a varistor. Basically a little surge protector for the board. There's another one of these components attached to the little metal box that the line cord is soldered to on the side of the cabinet. Be careful around here as this is wall voltage coming into your game with absolutely no safety precautions in mind. The five little diodes with the "high voltage" marking around them manage the DC voltage for the displays. This is wall voltage in this section so you can get shocked. The two white rectangle things are cement resistors. Each one travels to a bridge rectifier to control voltage. That's all the components other than fuse holders and connectors. Make sure the fuse holders are tight and clean along with the connectors. One other thing. Learn soldering. Less is better. Don't glob it on. Avoid bridging two solder points. Be sure that this game has more than a few cold solder joints. Make sure your power supply is sending the correct voltage. Sure you can buy new boards for the back box, but, if you damage one with incorrect voltage, the manufacturer will probably not honor the warranty. </p><p></p><p>Hope this helps some and sign up with Pinballninja.com. Watch ALL his Bally -35 repair vids. They will help.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="dtown8532, post: 258083, member: 320"] I'm sure Chris has received some answers by now. But, they're very few parts on the power module board. Replacing them all would not be considered a shot gun type method because this board takes a lot of abuse. He really should get (or borrow) a soldering station to manage the temperature. Very important in board work to not go too hot. Also, Hakko makes a gold Brillo pad like sponge that's great for keeping the soldering tip clean. Pinballninja.com is a fantastic video site maintained by Clay Harrell with hundreds of repair videos. A small, one time, donation gets you a password forever. He should look at every relevant Bally repair video even if it's not for EBD. Regarding the board itself, the four large diodes are for maintaining the 5v for CPU operation. They're stressed all the time. That's why the board is black underneath. The two square components under the board are bridge rectifiers. These are basically four diodes wrapped together in a little box to covert AC voltage to D.C. voltage. One is for the coils and the other is for the CPU controlled lights. They may have a heat sink paste on them and are pressed against a large metal plate that the board is attached to. This acts as a heat sink. The red lollipop looking thing is a varistor. Basically a little surge protector for the board. There's another one of these components attached to the little metal box that the line cord is soldered to on the side of the cabinet. Be careful around here as this is wall voltage coming into your game with absolutely no safety precautions in mind. The five little diodes with the "high voltage" marking around them manage the DC voltage for the displays. This is wall voltage in this section so you can get shocked. The two white rectangle things are cement resistors. Each one travels to a bridge rectifier to control voltage. That's all the components other than fuse holders and connectors. Make sure the fuse holders are tight and clean along with the connectors. One other thing. Learn soldering. Less is better. Don't glob it on. Avoid bridging two solder points. Be sure that this game has more than a few cold solder joints. Make sure your power supply is sending the correct voltage. Sure you can buy new boards for the back box, but, if you damage one with incorrect voltage, the manufacturer will probably not honor the warranty. Hope this helps some and sign up with Pinballninja.com. Watch ALL his Bally -35 repair vids. They will help. [/QUOTE]
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