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Pinball Cabinet Rebuild
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<blockquote data-quote="AcadDude" data-source="post: 280936" data-attributes="member: 7404"><p>I start with a 3/4" sanded sheet of plywood. I start with cutting wedge shaped sides. Overall length is 56" long. Wedges are 16" tall at the front and 23 3/4" at the back. I cut a 4x8 sheet in half and trimmed it down a little when I cut the diagonal. My first cabinet had a similar slope and I liked it. I cut them at the same time to ensure they are the same size and shape. I then use 2x4 cut in half to make 2x2 frame for the back. I use 2 1/2" long screws at each butt-joint so the frame is sturdy. I use more 3/4" plywood on the front. I am going to make the lockdown bar out of oak so I keep the front down 3/4" to cut in the oak plank hold down. It will be 7 1/2" wide to accommodate a 3" trackball. My overall width is 26 3/4" to fit my 49" monitor. The oak plank seems like it would be too wide and make the playfield further away from the player. Well that is true, but I tried various scenarios with the playfield window stretch up on my current cabinet and it was not a problem for me. If you need to look straight down at the flippers then this not for you. After attaching the sides to the back frame with 1 5/8" screws I cut a base out of 1/2" plywood. I am not worried about weight. You will need a little weight to make the nudge feel right without pushing the cabinet around too bad. After attaching the base to the sides front and back with 1 5/8" screws I cut a 3/4" piece to use as a riser area near the front. I placed it 13" back from the front and made it 8 1/2" wide. It came out of the 4x8 sheet along with the front piece. That 4x8 sheet is about used up. Enough left for braces if the sides are bowed or warped. Mine are. The riser area is where I will mount the controller with the accelerometer and the power connectors for the lights in the switches. It will let me use screws and not have them stick out the bottom of the cabinet. This is a good start. More to come!</p><p></p><p></p><p><img src="https://scontent.fmkc1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/44060666_2156374077728552_3908687270361694208_n.jpg?_nc_cat=110&_nc_ht=scontent.fmkc1-1.fna&oh=c0c7d58142037b22856c56b3b233472b&oe=5C8266AA" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /><img src="https://scontent.fmkc1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/44029891_2156783487687611_6274576765641818112_n.jpg?_nc_cat=103&_nc_ht=scontent.fmkc1-1.fna&oh=832e72b2ac03b0de15b7083337b5bf71&oe=5C7CA3F8" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><img src="https://scontent.fmkc1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/43878193_2156783521020941_424785146181320704_n.jpg?_nc_cat=105&_nc_ht=scontent.fmkc1-1.fna&oh=7ad1d60ee85a33368dc5228396159e40&oe=5C4E7E9E" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /><img src="https://scontent.fmkc1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/44063051_2158032667562693_5899063879417200640_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_ht=scontent.fmkc1-1.fna&oh=ee2e0aadd01ef38aff6d684435e2ebe1&oe=5C426F8E" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="AcadDude, post: 280936, member: 7404"] I start with a 3/4" sanded sheet of plywood. I start with cutting wedge shaped sides. Overall length is 56" long. Wedges are 16" tall at the front and 23 3/4" at the back. I cut a 4x8 sheet in half and trimmed it down a little when I cut the diagonal. My first cabinet had a similar slope and I liked it. I cut them at the same time to ensure they are the same size and shape. I then use 2x4 cut in half to make 2x2 frame for the back. I use 2 1/2" long screws at each butt-joint so the frame is sturdy. I use more 3/4" plywood on the front. I am going to make the lockdown bar out of oak so I keep the front down 3/4" to cut in the oak plank hold down. It will be 7 1/2" wide to accommodate a 3" trackball. My overall width is 26 3/4" to fit my 49" monitor. The oak plank seems like it would be too wide and make the playfield further away from the player. Well that is true, but I tried various scenarios with the playfield window stretch up on my current cabinet and it was not a problem for me. If you need to look straight down at the flippers then this not for you. After attaching the sides to the back frame with 1 5/8" screws I cut a base out of 1/2" plywood. I am not worried about weight. You will need a little weight to make the nudge feel right without pushing the cabinet around too bad. After attaching the base to the sides front and back with 1 5/8" screws I cut a 3/4" piece to use as a riser area near the front. I placed it 13" back from the front and made it 8 1/2" wide. It came out of the 4x8 sheet along with the front piece. That 4x8 sheet is about used up. Enough left for braces if the sides are bowed or warped. Mine are. The riser area is where I will mount the controller with the accelerometer and the power connectors for the lights in the switches. It will let me use screws and not have them stick out the bottom of the cabinet. This is a good start. More to come! [IMG]https://scontent.fmkc1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/44060666_2156374077728552_3908687270361694208_n.jpg?_nc_cat=110&_nc_ht=scontent.fmkc1-1.fna&oh=c0c7d58142037b22856c56b3b233472b&oe=5C8266AA[/IMG][IMG]https://scontent.fmkc1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/44029891_2156783487687611_6274576765641818112_n.jpg?_nc_cat=103&_nc_ht=scontent.fmkc1-1.fna&oh=832e72b2ac03b0de15b7083337b5bf71&oe=5C7CA3F8[/IMG] [IMG]https://scontent.fmkc1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/43878193_2156783521020941_424785146181320704_n.jpg?_nc_cat=105&_nc_ht=scontent.fmkc1-1.fna&oh=7ad1d60ee85a33368dc5228396159e40&oe=5C4E7E9E[/IMG][IMG]https://scontent.fmkc1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/44063051_2158032667562693_5899063879417200640_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_ht=scontent.fmkc1-1.fna&oh=ee2e0aadd01ef38aff6d684435e2ebe1&oe=5C426F8E[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
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