iOS iCade Support? (Bitty)

[Timelord]

Here's the actual hardware I spec'd in many Midway/Bally Arcades cabinets, abiet a newer more precise movement and feel. They are reliability tested to 10,000,000 cycles and cost less than the ones linked above. The are repairable when the microswitch finally fails.

The older style used in the vintage machines are also available from the same source and have the same mtbf rating.

Why go with anything less than the original specs when they are just as cheap or cheaper.

http://na.suzohapp.com/pushbuttons/539200xx.htm

Timelord ...

 

[Heretic]

Here's the actual hardware I spec'd in many Midway/Bally Arcades cabinets, abiet a newer more precise movement and feel. They are reliability tested to 10,000,000 cycles and cost less than the ones linked above. The are repairable when the microswitch finally fails.

The older style used in the vintage machines are also available from the same source and have the same mtbf rating.

Why go with anything less than the original specs when they are just as cheap or cheaper.

http://na.suzohapp.com/pushbuttons/539200xx.htm

Timelord ...

fyi wullie,

the icade is compatible with andorid devices too

unsure of offical tpa support but i dont see why not, wonder if ryan can jse the ios code

 

[Timelord]

Yeah, I know Heretic, just waiting for the actual TPA support since iCade is not supported on either device natively. The app has to be coded to support it.

Timelord ...

 

[sotie]

What shape/depth/dimensions are those? And what did you use to cut out the holes?

That's basically what I wanted to do with my own iCade Core, but I couldn't recall seeing room for buttons where you placed them... actually, just had a look, and I think I was looking at placing the buttons closer to the front. Never thought of pushing them back a little further! Nice work

Mounting diameter: 30mm
Overall diameter: 33mm
Installation depth: 32mm

To cut the button holes I used a 1-inch spade drill bit then carefully used a dremel to widen the opening the rest of the way.

 

[sotie]

Here's the actual hardware I spec'd in many Midway/Bally Arcades cabinets, abiet a newer more precise movement and feel. They are reliability tested to 10,000,000 cycles and cost less than the ones linked above. The are repairable when the microswitch finally fails.

The older style used in the vintage machines are also available from the same source and have the same mtbf rating.

Why go with anything less than the original specs when they are just as cheap or cheaper.

http://na.suzohapp.com/pushbuttons/539200xx.htm

Timelord ...

I would love to have used these buttons but to place them in the back of the unit where I did there would be too much depth required. On the left side the battery compartment is in the way and on the right side we've got the circuit board in the way. For the right nudge button I needed to bend the button's terminals to clear the circuit board. Here are pictures:

 

[Timelord]

No problem, just put on your "thinking cap".
If you truly wanted to use these push buttons all you need to do is provide for a stand off type adapter.

One DIY approach would be to use a wooden "doughnut" that you can construct from 3/4 " plywood. Paint it black and you are good to go. Another DYI way would be to use the cardboard core the electrical tape is wound on. It too is 3/4 " thick and the hole is conveniently the correct size. Leave a wind or two of tape on the spool and it's even black!

Finally if you want something off the shelf, here's a part for around $3.00 that will do the trick. It is really intended to provide a "anti accidental" switch activation protection on certain types of cabinets or pool tables, but if you turn it 180 degrees it makes a dandy standoff.

http://na.suzohapp.com/pushbuttons/95281500.htm

I like to think of "problems" as an opportunity to solve a puzzle.

Now personally I find the entire cabinet a bit flimsy so when I do my version, I'll just harvest the PCB and move it to a proper wooden cabinet that won't be so light and able to move by accident during game play. I did this with a M.A.M.E. interface that also serves as a VP interface for PC game play.

The beautiful thing is that there is no one right or wrong way to do it, as long as it functions properly. It's one's way of expressing one's self.

After all, it's only pinball !!!

Timelord ...

 

[sotie]

No problem, just put on your "thinking cap".
If you truly wanted to use these push buttons all you need to do is provide for a stand off type adapter.

One DIY approach would be to use a wooden "doughnut" that you can construct from 3/4 " plywood. Paint it black and you are good to go. Another DYI way would be to use the cardboard core the electrical tape is wound on. It too is 3/4 " thick and the hole is conveniently the correct size. Leave a wind or two of tape on the spool and it's even black!

Finally if you want something off the shelf, here's a part for around $3.00 that will do the trick. It is really intended to provide a "anti accidental" switch activation protection on certain types of cabinets or pool tables, but if you turn it 180 degrees it makes a dandy standoff.

http://na.suzohapp.com/pushbuttons/95281500.htm

I like to think of "problems" as an opportunity to solve a puzzle.

Now personally I find the entire cabinet a bit flimsy so when I do my version, I'll just harvest the PCB and move it to a proper wooden cabinet that won't be so light and able to move by accident during game play. I did this with a M.A.M.E. interface that also serves as a VP interface for PC game play.

The beautiful thing is that there is no one right or wrong way to do it, as long as it functions properly. It's one's way of expressing one's self.

After all, it's only pinball !!!

Timelord ...

It's okay I'm pleased with the Sanwa buttons I purchased and they were only $3.50 with no extra work involved. It's a clean install and looks like it came that way from the factory. I don't find it flimsy at all. It's about 3.5 lbs with the iPad on it and there are very "grippy" rubber feet on the bottom. In my use it hasn't accidentally moved during game play.

Can't wait to see pics of your wooden cabinet! Please post soon

I'm thinking about tackling a cabinet pc build this summer once PA is available.

 

[Dutch Pinball ball]

I knew it!!!! Already many guys, in anticipation for the icade support, building and modding ipad pinballcabinets.

This will bring ipad pinball to a new high, bring it on!

 

[Timelord]

Sotie,

Yeah, sturdiness is a relative term, bro. If the iCade build suits your expectations, that's all that really matters.
The cabinet I use is not a full size cabinet, but a dual joystick control panel. It's been evolving since the 90's.

It started as a "Hotrod" Joystick which was manufactured by Hanaho. Hanaho made a lot of the classic arcade machines back in the day. They are considerably more durable than the X-Arcade units. I have one of the X-Arcade trackball units and the vinyl covering and trim is coming apart after only moderate use.

It's 3/4 " Particle Board throughout and must weigh a good 20 lbs, but I never actually put it on the scale. All the controls are authentic vintage style electronic parts except for the keyboard controller interface which is wired into the JAMA standard wiring harness.

This thing is built like a tank and has taken beverage spills and the physical abuse from frustrated players for almost 20 years without a shrug. My son even puked all over it and all I had to do was wipe it down, clean the buttons so they didn't stick and not even so much as a hiccup from it.

When I purchased them they were wired for standard DIN keyboard. I have since modified one of them to ps2/usb interface using an X-arcade Hotrod adapter kit, so it's actually a Hotrod/X-arcade hybrid. It would be a pretty easy mod to wire in the iCade Bluetooth PCB into the cab and there is more than sufficient space to accommodate it. I probably would use an external 9vdc powers supply(wall wart) and plug/jack vs battery because I have a lot of them sitting around doing nothing and it would eliminate the battery replacement "engineering".

I'm not sure I am going to go that full route as Farsight has announced a PC version and that would eliminate a need for the Bluetooth adapter mod.

These things pop up now and then on eBay and make an excellent starting point for a interface build without starting from scratch.

If you really want some photos I can probably throw some up eventually, let me know.

Timelord ...

 

[sotie]

I misunderstood and thought you were going to build an iPad pinball cabinet with the iCade's board.

 

[Timelord]

I was indeed going to at one point in time, but the subsequent PC release made me re-think it. If the DLC's for Windows lag significantly behind mobile I will consider it, but it's wait and see until the Windows platform actually gets in our hands and we get an idea of the DLC availability.

I have two Hotrods, one of which is unmodified. That's the one I was going to use for the iCade mod. BTW I'm on Android (supports iCade) but would have to wait for TPA app support. The iPad support is already in beta, but I haven't heard of any official Android support from Farsight yet.

But the actual mod itself would be very straightforward. All of the interfaces have one thing in common. They simply read a switch closure and convert it to the proper interface protocol. It's a simple matter of tracing the wiring of each switch to the interface board and swapping the physical connections.

Totally straightforward.

Timelord ...

 

[Shaneus]

Mounting diameter: 30mm
Overall diameter: 33mm
Installation depth: 32mm

To cut the button holes I used a 1-inch spade drill bit then carefully used a dremel to widen the opening the rest of the way.

Fantastic, thanks for that (and the pictures as well!). I think I have my next mini project all worked out

 

[Turbine]

I've now got an iCade (core) and really like it - however - as expected, I want to swap out the buttons for some that are less clicky. From reading this thread, the leaf switches seem to be the ones to go for, but I don't have any tools to increase the hole from 28mm to 30mm, other than a set of files. It's only 2mm but I'm not sure how thick the case is. Is it going to be possible without a dremel?

I wouldn't mind changing the joystick while I'm at it. Any suggestions for one that I could do a straight swap on? I've got an X-Arcade dual tank stick, so was thinking about stealing some parts from that - not sure they're much better quality or will even fit in the iCade though?

 

[sotie]

I've now got an iCade (core) and really like it - however - as expected, I want to swap out the buttons for some that are less clicky. From reading this thread, the leaf switches seem to be the ones to go for, but I don't have any tools to increase the hole from 28mm to 30mm, other than a set of files. It's only 2mm but I'm not sure how thick the case is. Is it going to be possible without a dremel?

I wouldn't mind changing the joystick while I'm at it. Any suggestions for one that I could do a straight swap on? I've got an X-Arcade dual tank stick, so was thinking about stealing some parts from that - not sure they're much better quality or will even fit in the iCade though?

If you're going to go with something other than an arcade button check the dimensions first; especially if you decide to mount the buttons on the side instead of swapping the existing.

A file will work. I think the plastic was approximately 2-3mm. I read in another forum that someone used course sandpaper wrapped around a cylindrical object. Of course, if you can get access to a dremel it will make very short work of it.

I think the iCade update is coming with Whitewater/Space Shuttle this week!

 

[gooche77]

Hey sotie,

Did you somehow split the wires that are connected to the side buttons on your iCade core?

 

[Fungi]

I've now got an iCade (core) and really like it - however - as expected, I want to swap out the buttons for some that are less clicky. From reading this thread, the leaf switches seem to be the ones to go for, but I don't have any tools to increase the hole from 28mm to 30mm, other than a set of files. It's only 2mm but I'm not sure how thick the case is. Is it going to be possible without a dremel?

Here's what I used. No need to change the hole sizes.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390530267146

The plugs are differently sized, but they work just fine.

 

[Turbine]

Thanks for the replies - I'll get ordering!

 

[sotie]

Hey sotie,

Did you somehow split the wires that are connected to the side buttons on your iCade core?

Sorry, I'm not sure what you mean by "split the wires". I wired the side buttons to the existing buttons that I wanted to emulate so the original buttons still work.

 

[gooche77]

Sorry for the incorrect phrasing. Did you solder this wires to the side buttons?

 

[sotie]

Sorry for the incorrect phrasing. Did you solder this wires to the side buttons?

I have no soldering skills at all. I used crimp-on connectors.